Having collected all the bits needed, I installed the propshaft, although I was later to realise that I needed to put some Loctite on the bolts that go into the diff flange, must remember to do that tomorrow.
After that I carried on with the mounting for the speedo sensor, as mentioned
before. (You can see the sensor magnets in the middle of the shaft in the
photo above.) I tried to make the mounting pretty butch, as it has the effect of going around the propshaft, which
is rather exposed in the Rush. I can't quite see why Dax don't triangulate the chassis some more in the middle
here, as it would surely add some stiffness, and possibly safety.
Of course, I now have to add some more wiring for the sensor.
Another cold Saturday, but I need to get on.
The first thing to do was to torque/loctite up the propshaft bolts. When done this means I now have a complete drive train.
I then spent a while adjusting the position of the speedo sensor. It seems to be necessary to get it very close to the magnets on the propshaft, about 2mm away and I keep worrying about how much it will move when it's all going. After it was satisfactorily adjusted, I tightened up the nuts and overdid it, just about ripping the sensor into two parts! I'll have to get in touch with Greengauges and get another one...
Next, as mentioned before, I really
need to modify how the rear brake pipes are routed. So, I took them out and re-bent them into a rather better position.
This actually looks rather neater and has the benefit that the flexible pipe is defiitely out of the way of the
wheel.
Unfortunately the pipes are not quite long enough to reach without taking a slightly diagonal route from the 3-way union to the rear wheel connector.
Having finalised the position of the steering wheel, or at least being vaguely
certain about it, I finished off fitting the steering column by fitting the lower column and the two universal
joints that connect on either end. The lower column is actually supplied over-size by Dax and I have to saw a couple
of cms off it. It's also necessary to file a slot across the splines so that the clamping bolt will fit. Dax seem
to insistent that this is done using a rat-tailed file through the bolt hole in the UJs, as this is the obvious
way to do it I'm not sure why they make such a song and dance about it.
One problem with all this is that I had to grind away a chunk of the engine mounting to clear the lower column. Someone at Dax had told me about this, but I'm slightly concerned that there isn't enough clearance as once the engine is going it could be flailing all over the place.
Having done that, it's possible to twiddle the steering wheel and see the rack moving! Doesn't sound like much but it seems pretty neat from here.
in case you've got to this frame directly and can't get out, go here.