It’s another of those three steps forward, two back posts. Actually, I don’t know how many back it is really.
First, though, the forward bits. Most importantly, the chassis is now back home again. As you can see, I took the trailer off back up to Soham and collected it. To be honest it isn’t a fantastic job, but it’s good enough. It’s not quite the shade of grey that I was after either, but that’s no big deal. Mind you, I wonder if I want to make the roll cage a different colour from this? In which case, I wonder if it’s possible to paint on top of powder coating? Seems possible that it’s not.
In addition to the chassis itself, I got this big pile of suspension and engine mounting bits. The coaters were not as good as they said about keeping the coating out of the threads, and in one case they’ve got it in the threads and not on the housing around the threads. But, it’ll do. I’ll soon get along to fitting all these parts to the car.
In the meantime, I wanted to finish off the diff carrier. Last time, I said I was a bit concerned about getting the bearings on to the diff journals. After much discussion and thought, I decided to actually have a go at pulling a bearing onto one of the journals. So, using a long M10 stud righ through the middle of the diff and a little dolly I made on the lathe, I had a go. To my delight it pulled in without any great drama. I stopped after a few millimetres because I didn’t want to make getting it off too difficult, which is the state it’s in the photo. However, it was clear that this wasn’t going to be too big a problem.
So, I finished off the various bits for the diff carrier plates. Here’s the first of them here. This is the outer side of the plate and you can see the bearing in situ and the holes that allow access to the bolts that retain the sprocket on the diff.
That looked as though it was going to work so I took the plates apart and pulled the bearings onto the diff with the inner bearing carriers in place. I could then bolt the plates and the outer bearing carriers in over the top of the bearings and I ended up with the whole lot as one piece. As I started drawing this months and months ago, before I got the chassis from Jeremy, this is rather a relief.
At that point I went into a bit of a decline.
I thought I’d try fitting one of the sprockets I bought ages ago to this lot. The plan, if you’ve been paying attention, was to split these sprockets so that I could bolt them to the diff without taking the whole lot apart. In fact, putting the complete diff carrier together was a deliberate experiment on my part to see if this whole process was going to work.
First, though, I needed to cut one of the sprockets in two. So, with a new blade in the hacksaw frame I did this carefully and then proceeded to bolt it to the diff.
And then I noticed this.
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On one side of the diff the gap between the two halves of the sprocket is considerably larger than on the other side, as you can see in the two photos above. Clearly, this can’t happen, as the sprocket should be registered on the mounting points on the diff flange. There’s something screwy about this that I don’t understand at the moment. One possible problem is that the mounting holes in the diff are specified at 27/64″ with a 14mm registration dowel in two of them. (I’m not making this up…) I’ve got an M10 screw (not even a bolt at the moment) in the 27/64″ holes. That means that there’s 0.7mm of a gap at the side of the bolt. All the same, I thought that the whole thing was put into registration by running up against the body of the diff itself. In fact, there seemed precious little slop when I put it together. The hole size is very strange though. The largest imperial size that’s going to go through it is 3/8″ which leaves even more clearance than the M10 one.
Hmm, I’ll need to think about this. What I’ve got at the moment is clearly unacceptable.
If you’ve got any more poweder coating to do, try Morley Brothers just off the Tesco’s roundabout in Milton. Always had very good results there, paid cash and quick turnaround. The only problem is they can’t fit a whole chassis in their oven.
Hugh
Tim, On the BDN the sprocket is held in alignment by the 14mm hollow dowels, with M10 bolts through the 27/64th holes just clamping the sprocket to the diff. The diff flange is a close fit to the sprocket, but once you “split the circle” you lose the slight compression fit so end up with the unequal gaps and that system is not going to work. Unless you plan on changing sprockets between races to change the gearing you will be better off keeping the spocket in one piece and just removing one side of the diff hangers when you need to fit a new sprocket (about once per season from my experience). I’ve just fitted a new sprocket and chain and it was fairly easy process.
David
how about cutting up a hacksaw blade and tacking it to the cut edge of the sprocket. it may help with the alingment. Had trouble with powder coaters before. if the finish is not 100% then water gets in and rusts and the finish makes it worse. would be much easier to specify a thick coating and retap all the holes.
still it all looks great on the photos.
David, the reason for doing all this is because I wanted to make changing ratios easy. After all, most radicals use just this approach, with sprockets split in just the way, on this sort of diff, without problems.
Tacking a blade in place isn’t going to work, on account of the sprocket being aluminium. However, as a spacer it’s a good idea. Something else that’s been suggested is wrapping a chain around tightly before bolting it up. I’m off to try both of these approaches right now…
Tim
I am not quite sure from pics, but it seems the design is for the 2 dowl pins to transfer the shear and the “press fit” center hole to take care of correct fit. How about cutting the sprocket through the 2 dowl pins, and then maching tapers in the sprocket holes that attach the sproket to the diff. and use matching taper headed bolts(use the ones from a GSXR or other bike). The the bolts will align and transfer torque same as a motorcycle. I owned a bike shop in the mid 80’s and it most common to sell split sprokets. Krasue sprockets was the preferred brand.But now they no longer manufactur the split sprocket. When they did instead of a simple horz cut. the cut had a locking “keyway” like jig saw puzzle cut across. I do not remember having a single problem with this product. Would like to know why they quite making it. Keep in mind the HP application was around 40 HP. Heres a link to the type of taper and bolt I am refering to.
http://www.vitalmx.com/product/guide/SprocketsChains,9/MSR/Steel-Sprockets,2509/large
Tom