Well, at least I hope it does.
Since I was last here I’ve been pressing onwards, and missed the RGB meeting at Donington last weekend. Anthea and I went up to watch and got burnt in the sunshine while watching the RGBers swooping down the Craner Curves. What’s to bet that when we go back there later in the year it’ll be raining, like it’s doing at the moment? More importantly, it’s now not long until the meeting at Snetterton which I’m aiming at for the newly engined car.
I’ve finished chopping the loom apart and the first photo here is the finished loom. This is the complete bike loom with most of it removed. That is, there’s no fuse box, starter relay, lights wiring, stop relay 
and bank angle sensor, and so on. What’s more, I’ve lengthened and shortened a few of the wires so it fits properly in its new home. I’ve also bound into the loom a few special bits, including the pump relay, the speed sensor power supply and the resistor that mimics the Honda steering damper.
Mind you, despite my best efforts when installed in the car it still looks like an explosion in a knot factory.
From this position I really starting putting everything back together. First thing was to put the airbox together which necessitated fitting the link hose that goes between the top and bottom injector banks. On the ’07 engine I routed this around the airbox but the situation is a little different here because of the quick-
fit fuel connections that Honda now uses. (Which include the magical stated necessity of replacing the “retainer” every time you disconnect them. This is a tiny piece of injection moulded ABS (or similar) for which Honda charges the princely sum of £5-24. I suspect I shall be reusing them…) I’ve ended up with the link hose, as you can see, snaking through the body of the airbox where it will eventually be contained inside some sort of air inlet duct. Not quite worked out how to do that yet though.
Next thing was to fit the sump which I’d got from Andy. I tapped this for the oil temperature sender and carefully fitted it all to the engine. It’s a bit trickier than in the past because there’s a bypass hose in the sump that has to be fitted after the baffle plate. I ended up bolting the baffle plate into position, using the now-normal smear of PRV sealant, and then bolting the hose 
into place. After leaving this alone overnight so that the sealant would hold the baffle in place I then removed the bolts and put the sump itself on, again with PRV sealant. Finally, the central sump which fits around the pickup was fitted, with more PRV, and it looked like this.
With luck this won’t leak like mad when I fill it, as it’d be a real pain to take it off again.
In a plumbing sort of mood I then connected up the coolant hoses. I think I managed to do a slightly better job of this than on the other engine, as the runs are a bit shorter. Here’s one of them for your delectation and delight.
It was now time to try things so I worried a lot, installed a 1 amp fuse, worried some more and finally connected up the power. Gratifyingly the IACV (inlet air control valve) make a little chirrup and the pump whirred into life for a few seconds.
Then the fault light came on which was depressing. After a while spent reading the fault codes it said that the EGCV (exhaust gas valve) wasn’t happy which was odd. I eventually found out that if I rotated the rotor on the flap valve and re-turned the engine on then after a while it was happy that the valve was now in the correct position and the fault light stayed off.
Next, I put some oil in (no, the sump doesn’t appear to be leaking as yet) and spent the usual time churning the engine around trying to get reading on the oil pressure sender. After adopting the old trick of cracking the filter off to help flow it did finally appear.
What I should now be able to do is to start the engine! However, I’ll leave it until I can make a huge amount of noise, due to the lack of an exhaust, without too much worry. So, I consoled myself by starting to refit the transmission. Luckily, my calculations worked out and the sprockets were still aligned properly. That’s a relief.
The biggest issues left now are to sort the exhaust and to work out how to actuate the clutch, whether by cable (as on the bike) or hydraulically as used by the ’07 engine.